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| [The gilded front gate of the Palace Versailles] |
The château of Versailles is one of the most remarkable displays
of wealth in the modern world. Situated a modest distance from the French
capital city, this world-famous destination represents the epitome of decadence
– which is incredible considering it is over three centuries old. Even in today’s world, which is filled with
glorious architecture and overwhelming displays of wealth (see cities like
Dubai and Shanghai) Versailles and its grounds continue to amaze the thousands
of tourists who walk through its gilded gates every day. If we consider the
fact that today’s society still marvels over this aging European spectacle,
one can only imagine the effect it had on those who lived and functioned within
its walls during the palace’s time of prominence.
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| [An artist's depiction of Versailles during the reign of Louis XIV (photo courtesy of The Met. Museusm of Art.)] |
Versailles is probably best known as the royal dominion of
the French monarchy under Louis XIV. Beginning in the mid-17th
century, Louis XIV and his court of more than one thousand courtiers lodged at
the decadent château Versailles, which contains more than seven hundred
rooms. Despite the abundance of money, servants, and “the royal treatment”,
life here was extremely stressful for just about everyone except the le Roi Soleil. In fact, like the sun
itself, the days at the palace Versailles virtually rose and set around Louis. Each
of these thousand courtiers stumbled hands over feet to please the king’s every
whim. Throngs of nobles, eager to gain royal favor, waited in line outside the
royal bedchamber every morning to
catch a glimpse of the lever du roi (for
non-francophones, that’s literally the moment the kings gets out of bed.)
Courtiers also watched him go to sleep, eat, play billiards, and even go to the
bathroom – all while staying within the strictest lines of etiquette. However,
many nobles struggled to keep up with ever-changing trends in manners, daily
routine and even fashion. To falter outside these guidelines meant exclusion
from the castle, loss of noble title and perhaps even forfeit of possessions.
Despite the immense amount of pride and wealth that comes with being a staple
at Versailles, many men lost their fortunes and livelihoods chasing the dream
of acceptance. When one subtracts the decadence, ornate architectural features
and priceless artwork that adorn every inch of usable space, the walls of the
palace take on a repressive, almost demanding demeanor. While standing in the
accessible rooms of Versailles as an easy-going tourist with a camera, it’s
necessary to remember just how incredibly taxing it would have been to live
here for a single day.
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| [A decadent corner piece, surrounded by priceless paintings, is just an example of the detail that lines every inch of Versailles.] |
Fortunately, Versailles offers an equally luxurious place to
escape these daily tribulations – the world-famous palace gardens. These
gardens, which stretch miles beyond the bounds of the main building, are
equally as ornate and perhaps even more impressive than the chateau itself. A
man-made water feature (which is deceptively immense) is surrounded by a maze
of property including thousands of decorative topiaries, more than four hundred
marble statues, two mini-châteaux, and several additional private
gardens. In this historical period, palace gardens served as a place for nobles
to stroll and walk during the beautiful spring and summer months whether it be
with their families, mistresses, or both. Speaking as one who has now twice
visited these grounds, it would be nearly impossible to see everything in one
visit. As such, a stressed courtier could spend an afternoon decompressing in
the gardens for a month and never visit the same spot twice. Considering the
insurmountable pressure of trying to keep up behavioral codes inside the
chateau, these gardens became a priceless refuge for the many courtiers
fighting that cyclical battle for royal favor. Inside the walls, every facet of
life was subject to the most minute scrutiny. However, a simple stroll in the
gardens allowed one to breathe deeply, listen to the sounds of the fountains
and birds, and forget the tumult that awaited you upon your return.
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| [The château seen from the palace gardens.] |
As I sat on the sweltering RER
train en route back to Paris, I
couldn’t help but realize how closely my experience at Versailles mirrored the
lifestyle present there in the mid to late 17th century. Touring the
inside of the château is breathtaking. However, due to the immense crowding
and meticulous security, the tour is also quite overwhelming. Once your
self-guided tour begins, there is only one route for visitors to take – a
single path that leads from room to room to room until the end of the tour.
This elegant one-way street is often cornered off with retractable barriers to
remind the curious wanderer of the correct path. Any guest who attempts to
reverse into a previous room after leaving (perhaps to gaze again at a
beautiful painting or take another look at the elegantly staged furniture) is
sternly reminded by a château employee that il
faut avancer – keep moving forward. There is such an employee reminding all
guests of the correct etiquette stationed in just about every room. Towards the
end of the tour, visitors have the option to stop by café Angelina for some world famous hot chocolate. Yet even at this
small watering hole, visitors must sit down and finish their drinks or meals before
heading back into the halls of the château. Once finished with the entire
tour guests are funneled down a beautiful stone staircase, through the
giftshop, and out the door. By the time I made it to the bottom floor, I had
had just about enough of the interior of the castle.
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| [Versailles' famed "Hall of Mirrors"] |
However, what awaited me outside was beyond spectacular. The
freedom that I found in the boundless gardens was an absolute breath of fresh
air compared to the stifling, regulated pace of the château’s interior. After a
delicious lunch, I decided to follow a random footpath that circled long and
wide around the sparkling pond. Along my stroll, I encountered a family of cranky
swans, some heat-subdued ducks, and spent a mile or so walking with the sun on
my face. This short stroll brought me to a completely secluded knoll where I
stretched out to read. Without realizing I had fallen asleep, I awoke shortly
thereafter to find myself gazing across a beautiful vista and pond – no
stressful château
in sight. On my return to the palace, I (and about a hundred strangers) stopped
to marvel at the one of a kind fountain which was exploding streams of water at
full force – a treat that, as I later learned, only happens several days of the
year. Soon the day began to pass and I decided it was high-time to head back
to Paris.
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| [The gilded fountain of Versailles in action.] |
As I elbowed my way through the crowds surrounding the
chateau exit, I felt the pressure and sensation of frustration rise in me
again. Why are more than ¾ of the rooms here inaccessible? Who made it so one isn’t
allowed to explore at their own free will? And what’s with all the selfie
sticks? Luckily, all I had to do was remember my relaxing day in the gardens to
bring myself back town to a reasonable level of calm. Just about three hundred
years ago, only the noblest of the noble could lay eyes on these grounds.
Today, I woke up refreshed and relaxed on the very same lawns, surrounded by
good friends and serenity. Take that, authoritarian monarchy!
*all photographs (unless mentioned otherwise) are property of the author and will be treated as such*
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